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The town, located on the western edge of the Aegean Region of Turkey lies 73 kilometers south of Izmir on the Izmir-Aydin highway and 9 km.east of Pamucak, which is on the seashore and has clean natural sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. Selçuk has an area of 295 square kilometers. In the region Mediterranean climate is dominant. The cultivation of cotton, olives, grapes, citrus fruits is the driving forces in the economy in addition to the tourism industry. The town can house about 10.000 visitors.
The town can be reached by air via the Adnan Menderes Airport at Izmir or by the Selçuk - Efes Airfield. The ports at Kusadasi and Izmir faciliate sea travel. Because of it is location on a major highway, the bus connections are frequent and direct. Selçuk has rail connections to the neighbouring cities and towns. Selçuk, the beginning of whose history dates back to 6000 B.C., is an important center for three religions, all of which spread throughout the world.
It was first a center of pagan worship in the polytheist world of antiquity. The Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the world is a good example of this. Christianity was disseminated from Selçuk by St. John and his disciples. The Church of Virgin Mary and the tomb of St.John are important buildings from this period.
The Isa Bey Mosque is a significant example of architecture from the Islamic era. The famous Camel Wrestling Festival takes place on the third weekend of January each year.
APASAS - EPHESUS- SELÇUK
Ephesus, one of the most famous cities in antiquity , was founded on the harbour where the Küçük Menderes(Kaistros) River flows into. Selçuk grew to be an important city because of its fertile fields well-suited to agriculture, because of its location at the center of an important commercial crossroads with connections to the east. And because it was a significant religious center both in the polytheist period and the Christian era. Many famous historical figures lived in Ephesus such as; Artemidorus, dream commentator poets such as Kallinos and Hipponax, the philosopher Heracleitus, the painter Parrhasius, the grammarian Zenodotos, the Physicians Soranus and Rufus. The artefacts recently found at the hüyük (mounds) at Arvalya and Çukuriçi Mounds have revealed that the history of Ephesus dates back to 6000 B.C.The excavations carried out on Ayasuluk Hill reveal that the history of Ephesus goes back to 6.000 B.C.,the Chacolithic Period. Excavations at the Ayasuluk Hill brought to light a settlement from the Early Bronze Age. Thus ancient Ephesus was first located on the Ayasuluk Hill. It was first settled by Anatolian tribes and Hittites, for Ephesus is mentioned in the Hittite cuneiform tablets under the name of Apasas. The ancient geographers Strabo and Pausanias, the poet Kallinos, and the historian Herodotus claim that Ephesus was founded by Amazons and that the native tribes of the area of the area were the Carians and the Lelegians. Like colonists elsewhere in the Mediterranean basin, Androklos and his men arrived in Anatolia around 1050 B.C. and settled at Ephesus and its vicinity. Destroying the Temple of Artemis, the Cimmerians attacked this colony in the 7th century B.C. In the 560 B.C. under the sovereignty of Lydia the Ephesians began to inhabit in the area around the Temple of Artemis. The ancient city of Ephesus whose ruins visible today was established by Lysimachos, one of the generals of Alexander the Great, in 300 B.C.The city of Ephesus was moved back to the Ayasuluk Hill where had been its earliest settlement, during the Byzantine period. The city fell into the hands of Turks in 1304 and it became a part of the Ottoman territories. The city name of Ayasuluk was changed to Selçuk in 1914. For a period after the War of Turkish Independence, the city was called Akincilar. In 1957 Selçuk became a town with in the province of Izmir.
SITES OF HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE AT SELÇUK
ISA BEY MOSQUE
Isa Bey, a member of the ruling family in the district of Aydin commissioned the architect Ali to built this mosque in 1375. Some architectural elements from the Temple of Artemis, in particular the columns were reused in its construction. Measuring 51m x57m it is the earliest representative of a mosque with a colonnaded courtyard in Anatolia. It displays typical elements of Seljuk architecture and ornamentation, such as the pendants of the domes with the painted tiles, the stalactites of the window mouldings with arabesque motifs, coloured stones and painted tiles particularly the faience mosaics of the south dome. The monumental height of the west portal is the typical features of the Seljuk style. The mihrab and the pulpit are constructed from marble. In addition to this mosque, Selçuk also houses four small mosques currently in use and kümbets (large tombs with domed or conical roofs. All these structures belong to Aydinogullari Aydin Emirates) and Ottoman periods.
THE AQUADUCTS
The aqueducts, which have been used to carry water to the Ayasuluk Hill from the water sources on the slopes of lying to the east of Ephesus, have been preserved from the Byzantine period. The aqueducts reach a height of fifteen meters.
GATE OF PERSECUTION
This gate forms the entrance to the walls of the Byzantine fortification, and is decorated with reliefs depicting scenes of the pursuit from the life of Greek hero Achilleus. It probably dates to the 6th or 7th century A.D.
THE St.JOHN CHURCH
This church was built over the tomb of St. John. The presently-visible church is cruciform and roofed with six massive domes, and was built by the Emperor Justinian and his wife Theodora. The capitals facing the nave
(central aisle) bear their monograms.
THE CASTLE
The castle, located on the highest point of the Ayasuluk Hill and was constructed by Aydinogullari (The Aydin Emirate).It has 15 towers, a mosque and cisterns, and is entered through the gate on the west.
THE EPHESUS MUSEUM
Founded in 1929 it is one of the finest museums in Turkey which houses the artifacts discovered at the ancient site of Ephesus and its vicinity. The present museum building was in 1964 and underwent restorations in 1992. The objects on display dated to all periods of history: Mycenaean, Archaic, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Turkish
THE SAADET HATUN BATH (BATH MUSEUM)
This structure, built in the 16th century and later restorated, is located within the Ephesus Museum complex and is the first “Bath Museum” in Turkey.
THE CAVE OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS
During the reign of the Emperor Decius, Christians in Ephesus suffered from persecution because of their faith. Seven young Christians escaping from the cruelty of Decius took a shelter in a cave, which lies on the slope of Panayir Mountain. Falling into a deep sleep that lasted 200 years, they awoke in the reign of the Emperor Theodosus II, and saw that the Christianity had become the official religion. Because of this miraculous event, the seven people were considered to be sacred,, and were buried in the same grotto after their natural lives had passed. A church was built to mark the site.
THE TEMPLE OF ARTEMIS
Measuring 125 by 60 meters, the temple of Artemis is counted as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The ancient author Pliny writes that the temple was destroyed and rebuilt seven times. The worship of Artemis is a continuation of the worship of the Anatolian mother goddess Kybele. The Lydian King Croesus donated columns carved with reliefs to the temple. One version of the temple was set on fire in 356 B.C. by a certain Herostratus, who wanted to make a name for himself in history.
EPHESUS
Although ancient writes claim that the name of Ephesus derives from an Amazon Queen's name, the archaeological finds reveals that The Carians and Lelegians, the native peoples of Anatolia, had settled here long before the Ionians' arrival. Ephesus was first established in 6000 B.C and grew up around the Temple of Artemis. The Ephesians started to move to the new city built by Lysimachos in the 3rd century B.C. The following is the list of the various ruins of Ephesus as they appear from the upper gate, which leads to the House of Virgin Mary, to the lower gate.
THE MAGNESIAN GATE
This is the only city gate that survives up to the present day. There is not much thing to see today.
THE EAST GYMNASIUM
The East Gymnasium, one of the monumental structures of Ephesus, the gymnasium, is a complex that includes baths, palaestrae (exercise fields), study halls, and imperial cult rooms. According to an inscription it was built
by famous sophist Flavius Damianus and his wife Vedia Phaedrina.
THE VARIUS BATHS
The Varius Baths were constructed in the 1st century B.C. During the excavations, parts of a bath and a roman latrine came to light. These structures next to the bath might belong to a gymnasium that may have been part of the complex.
THE WATER SYSTEM AND NYMPHENIUM
The water springs are rather away from the fountains and houses in Ephesus. This monumental fountain on the street bounding the south side of the state was supplied by the Marnas River. The large fountain is well integrated into the street that fronts it. This monumental fountain was built between 4-14 A.D., and underwent various renovations the last of which was in the fourth century.
THE STATE AGORA
The state agora, measures 160 X 73 meters and was constructed in the 1st century A.D. It was the place the location of official religious and civic ceremonies, of government assemblies, and of the mercantile activities of the larger trading concerns that were subject to government regulation.
THE ODEION
This structure was devoted both to civic meetings and musical and theatrical performances. It seated 1400 people, and was constructed by Vedius Antonius and his wife Papiana in the second century A.D.
THE PRYTANEION
The Prytaneion (town hall ) was considered to be the sacred place of the city. It contained the altar of Hestia Boulaia, where a sacred fire burnt perpetually for centuries and was never extinguished. This the find spot of the two great statues of the Ephesian Artemis which are displayed at the museum now. The building was built in the 3rd century B.C during the reign of Lysimachos. The ruins seen today is dated to 1st century A.D. Two later temples near the site were dedicated to emperor Julius Caesar
and Dea Roma, the divine personification of the city of Rome.
THE WATER PALACE
It was built by proconsul Laecanius Bassus in 80 A.D., and is also called the “Water palace" because of its monumental appearance.
THE MEMMIUS MONUMENT
Memmius was one of the grandsons of Sulla, the famous Roman general. This monument dedicated to him was constructed in the first century A.D. during the reign of emperor August. A fountain was built into the northwest corner of the monument in the fourth century A.D.
THE TEMPLE OF DOMITIAN
Dedicated to Domitian, this is the first structure in Ephesus to be built in honour of a Roman emperor. The temple was erected on a terrace supported by a substructure measuring 50 by 100meters The substructure of the temple is used as "Inscription Gallery" today.
THE POLLIO FOUNTAIN
This structure dedicated to C.Sextilius Pollio in 97 A.D. It was decorated by the statue group of Odysseus and Polyphemus, and a basin stood in front of it.
THE GATE OF HERCULES
Just before the Street of the Curetes stand the remains of ancient gate known as the Gate of Hercules. This name arises from the figures of Hercules on the western faces of the two extant pillars. The capitals of the columns were decorated with acanthus leaves. Presumably these pillars, along with four others were standing on the beam above the arch of the gate.
THE STREETS OF KOURETES
Owing to the fact that this street was used by a six-membered-class of civic priests, who were chosen anew each year, and played an important role in the management of the city, it was given “Kouretes Street. The porticoes flanked both sides of the street, which provided shade for pedestrian, and behind of which were located the various shops. The street was lined by statues of prominent Ephesians. After three severe earthquakes hit the city in the 4th century A.D. the street was restored. The main sewer system in Ephesus lies beneath this marble pavement of the street.
THE FOUNTAIN OF TRAJAN
It was dedicated to the emperor Trajan (98- 117), and constructed between 102-114 A.D. The two storied fountain had a colossal statue of Emperor Trajan in the middle.
THE SCOLASTICA BATHS
The first construction on this site dates to the first century, and was later connected to the brothel and the latrine. The three storied bath dates to 400A.D. comprises a various rooms for bathing and lounging along with a library and has a capacity of 1000.
THE LATRINE
The general toilets had a square pool in the middle surrounded on four sides by toilet seats, in front of which was a channel of running water. The floor of this place was covered with mosaics.
THE HADRIAN TEMPLE
The Hadrian Temple is one of the most impressive constructions in Ephesus .It was dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian (118-138 A.D.) . The relief of Tyche, the goddess of city, is seen on the pediment of the temple. The legend about how Ephesus was established is also depicted on the friezes of the temple.
THE SLOPE HOUSES
These two or three storied houses belonged to the wealthy people of Ephesus were first built in the 1st century A.D. They were used as dwelling, with some renovations and repair until the seventh century. The walls were garnished with frescoes and the floors were decorated with mosaics.
THE BROTHEL
This two storied structure built during the reign of emperor Trajan, forms a complex with the Scholastica Baths the latrines. The walls were decorated with frescoes and the floor was covered with mosaics.
THE LIBRARY OF CELSUS
The Celsus Library was erected in A.D 135 by Julius Aquila for his father Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, the consul of Asia province of Roman Empire. The library, measuring 60.90 by 16.72 meters had a two storied facade and a large room inside. Its facade contains exemplars of architectural elements that are among the most beautiful ones of the period, such as doors, windows , gables, niches and columns. A gap of one meter between inner and outer walls of the the library protected the books from extremes of temperature and humidity. The sarcophagus of Celsus stand under the west side of the library. Four female statues standing between the columns personify the virtues of Celsus : Sophia (wisdom), Arete (virtue), Ennoia (intelligence), Episteme (knowledge). Celsus himself is buried in a sarcophagus beneath the west side of the library.
THE GATE OF MAZAEUS AND MITHRIDATES
This gate to the Agora was erected in 4-3 B.C by the freed slaves Mazaeus and Mithridates in honour of their former masters emperor Augustus and his family.
THE COMMERCIAL AGORA
The commercial agora , one of the significant centres in Ephesus was the real market place for trade in Ephesus. It was square and enclosed on all four sides by stoas. The agora was set up during the Hellenistic age and rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Nero and again in the 3rd century A.D.
THE TEMPLE OF SERAPIS
A path with a flight of stairs at the southwest corner of the Agora leads to the Temple of Serapis. The temple was rising on a high terrace .This prostyle temple had columns in the Corinthian order, each of which had a diameter of 1.5 meters and a total weight of 57 tons.
THE MARBLE ROAD
The sacred way that surrounds the Panayir Mountain is called the marble Street here, and is well preserved. The road was intended for vehicles, since pedestrians could use the colonnade. The huge sewer system of the city, which had a channel large enough to be entered by a human being also was running under this street.
THE GREAT THEATRE
It is situated on the slope of Mount Panayir. It was first built in the Hellenistic times and renovated in the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D. It seated 24.000 spectators. The stage building was three storied and rose to a height of 18 m. The cavea, the seating area, had consisted of three superimposed sections. The theatre was the scene of gladiatorial fights during the late Roman period. During the early years of the Christianity, St.Paul who came to Ephesus to spread Christianty and he wanted to address to the crowd at the theatre. The silversmith Demetrius provoked the people against St. Paul because he earned a lot of many with his handmade Artemis statues and they shouted altogether “ Artemis of Ephesus is great, The greatest is Artemis”. So St.Paul was forced to leave Ephesus and he continued his journey to Macedonia.
THE ARKADIANE (HARBOUR) WAY
It was constructed in late Hellenistic period and renovated by the Emperor Arcadius (395 - 405) and known by his name. It is 500 m. in length and 11m. in width The shops were located on both sides of the Arkadiane way.
It is also known as "Harbour Way"
THE THEATRE GYMNASIUM
This structure was built in the early period of the Roman Empire. Since it is situated next to the theatre it is also called "The Theatre Gymnasium" It is the largest gymnasium at Ephesus
THE HARBOUR GYMNASIUM AND BATHS:
There were two palaestra (athletic training grounds), one of which was 90 sq.m area and the other 200mx240m. The structure was built in the reigns of Emperors Domitian and Hadrian. The baths were erected in the second century. Since the baths were renovated in the 4th century they were also called " The Constantines Baths".
THE CHUCH OF VIRGIN MARY ( THE CHURCH OF COUNCILS)
This church , one of the important edifices of Christianity. is the first church which was dedicated to Virgin Mary.The third meeting of the Ecumenical
Council was held in this church in A.D 431.
THE STADIUM
The stadium measured 230mx30m and resembled a horse-shoe. The entrance was in its west facade. Seats for the spectators on the south side were constructed on the slopes of Mt.Pion while those on the north were built over a vaulted substructure .The first site of the stadium appears to go back to the Hellenistic period, and during the reign of the Emperor Nero (54-68 A.D.) it underwent transformation.
THE VEDIUS GYMNASIUM
The gymnasium ,one of the preserved buildings to be found in Ephesus, was erected in A.D 150 by P.Vedius Antonius, one of the prominent wealthy Ephesians of the time and dedicated to the Emperor Pius and the goddess Artemis.
THE HOUSE OF VIRGIN MARY
The House of Virgin Mary is settled on the peak of the Bulbul Dagi (Nightingale Mountain), 9 km away from Selçuk. According to the records of the Christian Council, Virgin Mary lived in this house until she died at the age of 64. It is widely believed that she left Jerusalem with St. John four or six years after the crucifixion of Jesus. John wrote in Bible that Jesus himself before crucifixion entrusted Virgin Mary to him. After Jesus' death Mother Mary and St.John According to legend, St.John came to Ephesus, St.John took Mary to a house he had built on Nightingale Mountain. This house where Mary is thought to have spent her last days was forgotten in time and fell to ruin. In the Middle Ages it was often claimed that the house was found but to no definite result.
In 1878 German nun Catherine Emmerich talked about the location of the house in a book by Clement Brentwood and interest was revived. In 1891 the Lazarus priest Eugene Pauline, who was head of Izmir College, sent a group under priest Young to find out if what was being claimed was true. The group explored the mountains south of Ephesus and came upon the house now known as the House of Mary.
Catherine Emmerich (1771-1824) had never left her hometown in all her life, was in a trance when making her explanation of the house's location. After this discovery, Eugene Pauline printed a number of things to increase interest in the find. The event was heard around the world. Many religious investigators shared the same conclusion. Izmir Patriarch Monsignor Tomin visited the site and gave permission for conducting services on the site in 1892. Pope John XXIII proclaimed the house a pilgrimage site, quieting all controversy over the site. The visits which Popes Paul VI (1967) and John Paul II (1979) paid to this building strengthened the belief that Virgin Mary lived and died at Ephesus.
The following facts are some of the supporting proofs that Virgn Mary died at Ephesus.
THE COUNCIL CHURCH: The existence at Ephesus, as early as the third century, of the first large Christian Church dedicated to St. Mary, where the Council of 431 was held, proves that Virgin Mary had either lived or died at Ephesus. Church laws. Then prevalent, did not allow the building of churches to venerate saints, except in places where they had lived or died.
THE COUNCIL LETTER
The letter of the Council Fathers to the Clergy of Constantinople mentions Virgin Mary as Our Lady Theotokos (Mother of God) and the Apostle St. John. It reads “....Nestorius came to this city where St. John and Mother of God, the Virgin Mary.....(lived)” The text iz elliptical, but there is no doubt as to its meaning. Besides, St. John's todmb is found there and this city is reowned for being virgin Mary's city.
JACOBITE TRADITION
Ever since the 8th century, the Syrian Jacobite Church has continually upheld the Ephesian Tradition. The Jacobites reaffirmed their belief, which they still maintain, in the 12th and 13th centuries. In the 17th and 18th centuries, highly respectable historians studied the question once again and upheld, on all points, the opinions of historians. The learned Pope Benedict XIV immediately echoed it.
LOCAL TRADITION
About seven miles east of Ephesus lies the village of Kirkince, which was inhabited in 1892, by approximately 4000 Greek Orthodox Christians, last remaining descendants of the Ephesian Christians.Every year, on the 15th of August, these people came to a small chapel on Bulbul Dagi. This chapel was called by them Panaya Kapulu, a name partly Greek and partly Turkish meaning “Gate” or “ House of Our Lady”. They came to celebrate the assumption of Virgin Mary into heaven. This is a strong point, since the Greek Orthodox Church teaches that the Virgin Mary went to heaven from Jerusalem. This annual pilgrimage had been taking place from time immemorial. They declared that this tradition observance of Virgin Mary's Assumption had been handed down from father to son.When it began is lost in the pages of history. All of this had been carefully checked by an inquiry commision in 1892.
There is a small, cross-shaped, domed church built at the end of the road leading from the cistern. This is the structure known as Mary's House. This structure dates from the 6th or 7th century, and was repaired to its present condition. There is a red line marking where the ancient wall stops and where the newer wall begins. Inside the entrance with door-shaped niches at either end, there is a vaulted platform area. There is a statue of Mary in the apse which has been there for centuries. There was a fireplace at the front where Gary marble separated it from the rest of the house. During excavations coal and house utensils were found dating to the 1st century AD.
This place has become a frequented destination for pilgrims since the image of Virgin Mary is venerated not only by Christians but also Moslems. A special mass is held each 15th August which attracts numerous visitors.
SELÇUK SULTANKÖY LOCOMOTIVE MUSEUM
This museum in which the old locomotives are exhibited is located at Sultanköy which is 11kms. to Selçuk. The samples of the train locomotives which had been used from the beginning of the 20th century to today are exhibited in this open-air museum.
SIRINCE
Sirince lies in the 8km east of Selçuk in the midst of natural and historical beauties. The history of village dates back to the 5th century A.D. Once the village was called “Kirkinca” or “Çirkince” which means “ugly”.The previous name of the village is said to be "The Ephesus on the hill" as well. According to some historical sources when Aydinogullari Principality took Selçuk, some of the town's inhabitants fled to Sirince. The village is surrounded with grapevines, olive trees and peach orchards. Besides two churches, which were built in early 19th century, the classical Anatolian architectural properties are worth visiting. Sirince is a lovely village with its web like streets, two storied authentic houses, hardworking and hospitable people and special wine made at homes.
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